Bulgogi, meaning “fire meat,” is one of Korea’s most famous dishes, but its history is a long and fascinating journey through various dynasties and social changes. It’s not a single, unchanging recipe, but rather an evolution of marinated grilled meat.
The history of Bulgogi:
- Origins in the Goguryeo Dynasty (37 BCE–668 CE) The earliest form of Bulgogi is believed to be a dish called maekjeok (貊炙). This was a skewered, marinated meat dish, often roasted over a fire. The name “maekjeok” is thought to refer to the “Maek” tribe, who were early ancestors of the Goguryeo people. This practice of marinating and grilling meat laid the foundation for future versions of the dish.
- The Influence of Buddhism and Mongol Rule During the Goryeo Dynasty (918–1392), meat consumption largely disappeared due to the strong influence of Buddhism, which prohibited eating meat. However, this changed with the Mongol invasions in the 13th century. The Mongols, who had a meat-eating culture, reintroduced grilled meat to the Korean peninsula.
This led to the revival of the dish, which was then known as seolhamyeok (雪夜覓). This was a more refined version of maekjeok, where the marinated beef was roasted and then soaked in cold water several times, a technique meant to tenderize the meat.
- The Royal and Noble Dish of the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910) During the Joseon Dynasty, the dish evolved into neobiani (너비아니), which translates to “spread thinly.” This was an expensive and luxurious dish served primarily to the royal court and aristocracy. The meat was thinly sliced and marinated with a refined sauce, then grilled over a charcoal fire. This version is considered the direct ancestor of modern-day Bulgogi.
- Modernization and Popularization The term “Bulgogi” itself came into use in the early 20th century. It originated from the Pyeong’an Province in what is now North Korea. The dish became more commercialized and accessible to the general public in the 1920s.
After the Korean War, Bulgogi’s popularity grew significantly, becoming a staple in Korean households and a symbol of Korean cuisine. The development of new meat-slicing technologies also made it easier and cheaper to prepare the thinly sliced meat, contributing to its widespread popularity.
Today, Bulgogi has many regional variations, such as Gwangyang-style Bulgogi, which is grilled over a charcoal fire and known for its simple marinade that highlights the flavor of the beef, and Seoul-style Bulgogi, which is cooked on a special domed pan with broth and is often served with cellophane noodles.
So, while the term “Bulgogi” is relatively modern, the tradition of preparing marinated, grilled meat in Korea dates back over a thousand years, evolving from a simple skewer-cooked dish to the beloved culinary icon it is today.